More Comprehensive Repair Hints

The method of repair depends on the severity of damage

1. Can the repair be carried out in situ? (Either before or after the repair can, if it’s a door or lid can be closed?)
2. Is the damage such that the damaged item has to be taken off or is already off?
Principle 1. 
It is a fact that G.R.P. Will recover deflections, due to load imposed upon it, totally within 24 hours of release of the given load. However due to damage the exposed glass fibres may be physically stopping the recovery and must either be forced back into position or removed.
In the first instance the impacted area has to be forced in the opposite direction to the impact to realign the glass fibres as they were before impact, not unlike a snapped twig it has got to be bent back beyond its original position before the break then it will then settle back again, and if it was forced far enough back, will settle in a satisfactory position. If how ever the damage is such that it will not allow recovery then the break area has to be removed by a hacksaw blade or similar.
Principle 2.
The damaged area must be made sound, free of grease, loose flaking material, dust, dirt, frost, damp and water.
If the damage can be repaired in-situ.
1. First remove any loose material, scour with sharp object and abrade surface with abrasive.
2. Apply a degreaser to the surface to be covered, - acetone, CTC, Trichchlorethylene, cellulose thinners etc.
3. On the reverse side masking tape, sellotape, wire, timber all sorts of support and fixing can be utilised until the Nuvex cures and takes over
4. Apply thinly Nuvex matrix and allow to cure.
5. Cut Nuvex to size in the shade with either Stanley Knife or scissors
6. Take backing nylon off Nuvex.
7. Apply and smooth over all the area, allow generous over-lap or total coverage. Taking care the edges in particular are stuck well down.
8. Leave to cure in the most direct daylight
If the damage cannot be repaired in-situ
1. Remove all fixtures and fittings
2. Place the moulding on a level surface. Face down, preferably on sheet of rigid and flat material
3. Restrain the moulding within its working parameters, checking diagonal measurements in particular.
4. Then a) to g) above, but not using any fixings or holdings that prevents the supported work piece from benefiting from any flat surface it is resting upon.
5. After possibly an hour dependant on the degree of cure, the repaired moulding can then be put back in its working position. (Realising that full strength at this stage has probably not been achieved)
6. Repeat steps a) to g) allowing both sides to be exposed to U.V. for as long as possible, before painting or shutting of doors or lids, thus cutting off U.V.
– Do not apply on frosty, wet or damp surfaces without pre-treatment.
– Do not effect repairs after 3 on a mid winters afternoon as the sunrays are too low to effect a surface cure before the nights frost. (Unless U.V. lamps are used.)
– If the surface is to be painted afterwards take the top film off after 10-15 mins so as to leave a matt finish, Leave the painting for as long as possible to allow curing, at least 2hrs, as the paint will effectively arrest the curing process.
– Nuvex will cure under clear polythene even if it is raining, in fact after only 10 mins. of exposure to U.V., Nuvex even though not thoroughly cured, will not be harmed and will continue curing.(Even under water!)
– Where adhesion of Nuvex may be suspect due to site conditions almost any adhesive can be used on the cured material, (clear silicone sealant/ adhesive can be used, before cure if need be)
– As a back up self-tappers or bolts can also be used to reinforce a repair, as when cured, Nuvex can be easily cut, sawn, drilled and filed.
– For Tech support – info@nuvex.co.uk